Thursday, August 02, 2007
capitol peak
jake and i climbed capitol peak yesterday. it's considered the most difficult 14er in colorado, and i must agree after spending 13 hours on it. it's hard to describe. there was probably 4 hours where a single mistake would likely mean death. i'm still rattled from it. while climbing it i asked myself repeatedly why i do these things, but afterwards i know. i believe life must be judged in retrospect, and sitting here in a leather chair enjoying a sandwich and the memory, i'm glad i was clinging to those rocks yesterday. this might be the last of this kind of madness for a while for me. might not.
i wrote a trip report for 14ers.com
http://www.14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=3525
how is everybody?
Thursday, July 05, 2007
America the...
While all of these reasons are still present and problematic in my mind, for the first time in my alert life, I now consider myself proud to be an American. Peru was lacking something, something hard to really pinpoint, but something essential. Charisma, individuality, openness, opportunity, hope, and zest are all words that come to mind. The combination of all thse gives us some sort of radiance, a shine to our eyes and smile. The people there were just kind of beaten down and expressionless. It is possible that the presence of a Mcdonalds , once the symbol of our negative ifluence over the world, might actually brighten their faces a little. And there were no Mcdonalds where we were. Our reach is far more limited than I had imagined.
The simplicity of life in a small town with no televisions is a beautiful thing. It's something I had idealized. But the simplicity of life in a small town, with access to information and the understanding that you can leave and pursue something bigger if you wish to is far greater.
Friday, June 22, 2007
Peru2
Despite sicknesses from the other two travelers, one (Jake's friend) of which resulted in a return to the US and some time in the hospital (pollo loco), we did manage to get to that hike outside of cuzco. We traveled uphill along a lush river meadow to about 14,ooo feet, where we encountered a town that didn't even have a road within 5 miles of it. Their 'houses' were made of piles of rocks, the nice ones had roofs made of grass. They spoke Quecha, the language the country spoke before Columbus' "discovery", as did many of the small mountain town people we would later meet. After this difficult 15 mile hike, we got on a bus back to Cusco, which of course didnt have seats for us. It did, however, have a hog-tied goat, a bag of chickens, and a pig in a bag, attached to the luggage compartment (tied to the roof).
We left Cusco and spent a day in Lima. Lima has 8 million people, most of whom are very poor, but we found a cool kinda hippy disctrict. We walked along the beach for most of the morning, and had mystery meat sandwiches. As my cousin showered that afternoon, I wandered out of the hostel and met up with some peruvians and a swede, and within 5 minutes of walking out my door, was staring down the barrell of a cup full of peruvian tap water and san pedro, a psychadelic cactus with mescaline. The swede considered himself a shaman, and proceeded to tell me the way of things for the next several hours, and eventually gave me more san pedro, and a cryptic map to the world he insisted should be tattooed on my heart. He dropped a lot of wissdom, mostly about the power of love and the sun. I liked his phrase "soy un otro tu" (i am another you) quite a lot.
Huaraz was absolutely beautiful. Cool little mountain city. Nestled in the Cordillera Blanca mountain range, the hightest tropical ranger in the world, with a peak towering above it at about 22,000 feet. Found a nice hostel with a great view. Went to a soccer game, whose highlights included the swat team coming out to protect a player on the other team, and a man in the stands near me repeatedly attempting to light a home made celebratory bomb but being too drink to do so. Also sun burn. We then spent 3 days hiking by ourselves, which involved beautiful camp-sites, views of glacier capped mountains and bright green lakes, and making it to 17,000 feet, dominating colorado's highest mountains depsite being only a pass through to the next valley. It also involved repeated encounters with bulls, and a severe altitude induced panic while trying to sleep at 15,000 feet. It was among the worst I've ever felt, definitely the most home-sick.
We then spent some time enjoying Huaraz, and found a restaurant called chilli heaven which was the perfect antedote for bland peruvian food. We wandered into a climbing place at one point, trying to scout out another mountain journey, and walked out with our entire remaining 9 days booked with a 5 day trek up to 6000 meters (about 20,000 feet) that included another 18,000 foot mountain, and an additional 3 day training hike. I became quite depressed by the revelation that we would be spending the entire remainder of our vacation suffering up mountains, and we decided to skip the training hike in favor of a night of drinking where we discovered liquer de coca and drank an absurd amount of it. we also drank some coke based energy drinks, as we were apparently in the midst of some strange liquid coke binge. Also a day of rock climbing at a real cool sport, where I learned some skills that might later save my life, and a short day hike to another beautiful lake, where we fell asleep because it was after the night of drinking. Also considerable dreading turning to excitement over the summit journey.
Summit Journey:
Day 1, easy 4 mile hike up to base camp with mules carrying our shit. Turns out the guide is a big stoner. Decent weed. Base camp is above 14,000 feet, and has something like 50 other tents, yet every dingle person there was asleep by 7pm. Tocllaraju towers above us.
Day 2. Climb mt. Ishinca. 18,000 feet. Very very very hard. hardest thing i've ever done. leave at 4 am, 7 hours up hill, either carrying a bag of metal, or using it to climb. deep breaths stranglely unsatisfying. none of our equipment fit properly, and the metal spikes that attached to our shoes (crampons) were surprisingly difficult to maneuver. We made it though. The view from the top of the other glacier mountains made it almost worth it, but on the way down, hurting like hell and left behind, I decided I didn't want to climb the 6000 foot peak, it just didnt seem as fun as drinking more san pedro with my friends in huaraz. upon arriving to the bottom, and experiencing some heaven in the form of my feet dipped in the cold stream and an orange, eaten like an apple, I decided I might as well go for it.
Day 3. Even worse. Hike the incredible steep and rocky path up to high camp (17,000 feet). By far the biggest backpack I've ever carried, food, tent, sleeping bag, clothes, ski boots, ice axes, crampons, climbing shit... fuckin sucked. Decided again that I was going home, i just didnt have what it takes. Decided again that I might as well make a run at it. Needed to fix my mind though, replenish my strength reserves. Spent the next several horus sitting bymyself in my rented down turqous and pruple coat, melting bags and bags of snow, repeating to myself that I would make it, I would make it, I would not be deterred by exhuastion. Whirled myself into quite an excitement, and slept only about 2 hours that night. Felt ready.
Day 4. Up at 4, prepared to suffer, completely ready, composed, willful. We find a slow hiking rhythm in the dark, going so slow that you almost rest while walking. the slightest move, such as pulling up the harness, leaves you exhuasted for several minutes but you keep walking. I alternate between thinking of the bed, complete with naked kelly and feisty doggy that await me, and the idea that it is my swarn duty to push my little headlight spot on the snow up the mountain, while singing Tribe. Push it along, just push it along, all you gotta do is push it along... The sun rises, we're about half way there, and i'm starting to run out of energy, I can't eat, but I'm close. We keep pushing it along, and arrive at the last pitch, which gives Toclliaraju its "Difficult" Rating. over 60 degree angle for about 80 yards. We can hardly hear the guide's instructions for tying our harnesses into the rope over the howling wind, which scared my cousin like crazy, as he works in a climbing gym and understood just how many fundamental climbing rules we were breaking. I was just happy to be almost done. We climbed up the wall, clinging to the moutnain for some 15 minutes in the middle as the guide pulled up the rope we had just clmibed and set it up again near the top. My cousin had another big freak out after seeing the poor excuse for an anchor and nearly headed down 30 meters short of the summit. But we fucking made it. I kissed the snow at the top and nearly cried. cousin was deeply shaken, convinced we were lucky to be alive and going down would be even sketchier. incredible view. survive the down-hill, sometimes elated to be done, sometimes completely drained, struggling to take the next step. then we got to high camp, packed our shit, and put those fucking bags back on our baks, and I really didnt think i'd make it down. got left behind again, and kinda fell apart. we were basically jumping from boulder to boulder, down a steep hill, with 50 pounds on our backs and no energy, and I just couldnt do it. I fell about every 10 feet and struggled to get back up every time and wanted to cry. at some point a peruvian porter sees me and offers to help carry my bags, for free, because I clearly cannot. quite a blessing. I tell myself I earned it by going through hell and still trying to focus on enjoying the scenery. We sleep at base camp and I felt basically indifferent. didnt have the energy for emotion. I no longer hated looking at the mountain, became almost infatuated with staring at it, just thinking and feeling nothing.
day 5: back downhill, mules carry our shit, we smoke a bunch, and I say goodbye to the rural peru with aheavy heart. i wonder more about why I put myself through these sufferings, and have a good answer, but thats for another blog. I had (and still have) a very clear mind and increased confidence. That night I met a cute little columbian archeoligist and learned how to salsa dance...
(cant find cord for camera right now, more pics available soon)
Thursday, June 21, 2007
Homeword bound


International heartthrobs brant and bubbrubb are stateward! Two pictures are rubb at 18000ft on Nevado Ishinka and myself at basecamp of imposing 19800ft Nevado Tocllraju in background climbed earlier that day. Rubb and I used up at least one of our 9 lives trying to climb it (I think I have two left). Peru is fantastic though I threw up for 8hours on the busride back to Lima. It is great to be back stateside I can't wait to see friends and family. Cousin olympics would and should be an annual event even though we are going to have to get increasingly more organized about it due to the everchanging demographic of The Clan. I am glad Kilgore and crafty are going on their hike now because it makes it easier to say no. I wish I could come but I need work, time out-of-tent, and Dunkin Donuts. I await your return to Chicago and am looking forward to coming to CBOT to learn as much as I can about Sopris Trading in the short time that I have left. If nothing else I can be the official panoramic mountainscape desktop digital picture provider for the website. Have a good time and I will pass on some words of advice from two southern mississippi missionaries that we met in Peru, try to look on the outdoors through the eyes of Jesus!
Friday, June 15, 2007
Thoughts
Time Travel
I had this thought the other day: I think if you somehow managed to travel forward in time for a significant amount of years that when you arrived in the future you wouldn't last more than a week before you died. The reason is this; I think viruses and bacteria and such would have adapted and mutated over the years and you, being the time traveler, would not have had those years to build up a sufficient immunity to such things. So, my conclusion is that time travel, while very interesting, would not be worth the trip.
Life After Death
I was walking down the street the other day(what a cliche opening sentence!) when I crossed paths with a young woman pushing a older woman in a wheel chair as I was pushing my daughter in a stroller. I found it strangely ironic how you begin life by having your elders feed you, bathe you, change your diapers, and push your around in stroller only to finish life by having someone your younger do the same for you. The only difference is a stroller is now a wheel chair, gerber baby food is now an ensure milkshake, and pampers are now depends(what an apt and amusing name for a product).
Now I'm well aware that I'm not the first person to notice the irony here, but it brought me to this thought:
What if the reason we revert to a childlike state near the end of life is because we are preparing for some sort of rebirth. Maybe the reason we lose our memory at the end of our days is because we're not supposed to know that we lived a previous life.
This last thought made me wonder about the people who don't make it to the later stages in life, the ones who die young. Maybe the ones who die young are at the end of their life cycle. I've heard that children with terminal cancer have said they always new they were going to die and that they are normally more at peace with death than people much older.
Anyway I'd like to think on this much more.
New York
We're moving back to Chicago in a month and while I'll have some fond memories of my time here when I leave I won't ever look back. Some things about NYC that I won't miss: all the trash on the sidewalks, the subway, rats, the insane amount of chicken bones everywhere, street hoods, anyone from the city, any New York sports fan especially the Yankees and Jets, New York cops, moving my car 4 times a week for street sweeping ($70 fine), taxi drivers, traffic,
tolls (one is $9), and so on. I hate New York City with a passion. On a side note--the rest of the state north of the city is nothing short of beautiful and surprisingly accessible.
Cuzzin Olympics
The next olympics needs to be planned soon. This summer is still young. I'm thinking possibly Green Lake again or Aspen over Labor day weekend. I have two ideas about the olympics:
1)This should be an annual event
2)The winner of each years olympics should get to pick the location of next years events but must also be in charge of the organization.
3)The cuzzin olympics also needs a website.
Colorado
I leave for Colorado in a couple days and I think its the only thing keeping me together. Rob if you're thinking of joining us, we're camping Sunday night in Buena Vista and leaving Monday morning so get in touch with me before Friday so we can coordinate meeting up.
Wednesday, June 13, 2007
Wednesday, May 30, 2007
Lex Talionis



I spent the Memorial Weekend honoring the senseless deaths of millions by swimming, drinking, jet skiing, and fishing in southern Virginia where the Confederacy is still very much alive.
I also witnessed the wonders of the Potomac River wildlife by seeing a turtle(pictured), bald eagle, water moccasin, osprey, egret, catfish(pictured and caught by me), maryland blue crab, gopher, and an awesome fish called a Croaker which makes noises like a frog.
On an unrelated topic, I am currently taking a colon cleanser to purge my body of unwanted toxins. I have pooped 7 times since I began taking the pills less than 24 hrs ago. Strangely I had not anticipated the effects this would have on my anus.
On an equally unrelated topic, I have become sadly distressed by the news of dog fighting in the NFL. I have come to the conclusion that the only just sentence for a person caught dogfighting is lex talionis(an eye for an eye). Let said persons be put in a ring with one of this dogs and if he makes it out alive than so be it. I also wonder if there has ever in the history of cats been an all out duel between two felines to the death?
Last note: I absolutely love the look Grace has in that picture but have yet to figure out what kind of a look it is. I'm guessing perplexed.
Tuesday, May 29, 2007
peru1
the first night in peru was spent hanging out all night in the hotel in lima, drinking duty free scoth and enjoying the company of my travel mates. we talked to some fellow gringo travelers and shared advice, and got gradually more manic as the night went on. we arrived in cuzco at 7am the next morning, completely disoriented, and enentually found a hostel. a private room with three beds was under $20 and as we sat down to talk about the details we were served coca tea. it would not be my last taste of the leaf.
we spent that day and the next planning our machu picchu journey, sipping the local beer, and getting toursit crap shoved in our face. food and souvenirs are cheap and the people are quite friendly, but the combination can be overwhelming.
muchu picchu journey, day 1: a very confused start. the guide said he'd show up at 7:30 and drive us to the bus station for the 8am 3 hour bus to the start. showed up at 7:50, on a bike. the bus was oversold, so peruvians sat in my lap. after we}ve been climbing a seemingly endless muddy mountain road with attempted construciton and closures for 6 hours through the rain, the guide decides its time to get out and get on bikes. the peruvians happily take our seats and stare dumbfounded as we put on some strange helmets, sit on the bikes, and start riding down to the jungle, instantly covered in mud. expectations were quite low at this point. it was about 40 miles downhill and turned out to be one of my favorite strange adventures. we eventually descended below the clouds, the road and mud on my face dried, no more consturction, great views over the amazon basin. my ass paid the price of entry to this paradise. jake's bike exploded and was stranded in the jungle as night fell.
-day 2 and 3 were about 30 miles through the jungle on foot with small packs, picking fruit off trees for snacks, chewing coca leaves and being dominated by mosquitos. we slept in busted hostels in small jungle town and failed to converse with the guide in spanish. we drink heavily one of these nights in a bar that was like an interrogation room from cop movies and are taught a drinking game that involves poking a cigarette into a napkin on a beer and having to drink the ash beer if you do it wrong. we try to explain flippy cup but it deteriorates into drinking a full beer every time you miss the flip. i got zapatos locos (crazy shows) and refused to go to bed when the guide said it was time and ran away while my travel mates convinced the guide to take us to another bar. he said i was a small problem. roosters do not just crow once during sunrise. those fuckers are relentless. we also crossed a river by a self propelled zipline and learned the hungry chicken handshake.
-day 4 we climbed a moutnain in the dark to get to machu picchu for sunrise, then climbed another mountain to be able to look down on it. absolute beauty. i was really expecting to feel a special power to the place, and i´m a little disappointed that i did not. perhaps it was that there were thousands of tourists and those that pray on them. either way, an incredible place.
then we spent the night partying, making it nearly 24 straight hours awake. we spent the next day in a deep chill and planned a trek, which i am supposed to be on right now, but it got delayed because jake got food posioning. he´s alright. we leave tomorrow and it should be amazing, though if things go wrong we may miss our flight to lima. i just said goodbye forever to the three pretty europeans from the MP journey and i´m really wondering why i didnt try to hook up with any of them, or that one peruvian girl. i,ve written kelly two emails and got no response and have now decided to take off the necklace she made me and experience some local culture in every way possible. before you object, i will state that we decided that we were not together this month, and we're both moving a month after i return.
everything else is basically solid. we eat out for every meal for about 5$. the food isnt spicy enough and i miss solitude, fast internet, my bed, hot showers, friends, family, girl... but its damn beautiful here once you get away from the plazas. today we went to the central market and there were piles of chicken heads and shit. it did not help cure jake´s stomach. tomorrow´s two day hike should be incredible. love to you all.
Tuesday, May 22, 2007
Tuesday, May 15, 2007
Monday, May 14, 2007
Kyle updates
I'm off to a small island in the south of France in a week. I expect a lot of good wine. Can people get wine guts? I'll find out.
Children of Men is a tasty rental. Check out the two elaborate battle scenes that are filmed with only 1 shot.
Sean is 7 months old now and growing fast. Pretty soon he'll be knocking at your door asking for candy and/or a place to crash.
Monday, May 07, 2007
slump buster
"Slump buster" is a term that was developed with a visiting friend of mine, as we debated solutions to his unrequited love. He hadn't had sex in many months (both a support and result of said love) and we decided this was a problem. In a rare moment of forwardness, we started dancing with some girls (repetetive movement as a pickup line...strange choice for society...perhaps because of subliminal similarities to sex?) and eventually ended up at their house. We drove home that night, he got a ride home the next morning after successfully busting his slump. During the awkward goodbye, with both characters knowing they would never see each other again, she vomited on herself in the driver's seat and he said "AHHHHH" and ran into my building.
Tom Robbins is now being definitively stated as my favorite author.
This is a funny video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JpBGRA6HHtY
Sometimes I say the line at the end when flushing a nasty poop. I am not sure from whence it came.
I encourage everyone to plan a vacation on Lake Powell. My week on there was among the best in my life.
Anyone have any Colorado trips planned? June 22-24 is Panic at Red Rocks. I have also decided that I will climb Mt. Snowmass. I leave in mid august, and if anyone wants to go backpacking betwenn now and then, I love you.
I'm moving to Ann Arbor, MI for 5 years of grad. school. If anyone can think of ways for me to tear down marketing from the inside, let me know. Also interested in the train from ann arbor to chicago.
Fuck comfort. What collection of Rob thoughts would be complete without my young-adult mantra? My new quote for this thought is "do something that scares you every day." Eleanor Roosevelt of all people said that. "Take a risk, make it sweet" was my friend RobD's version. My latest source of this is exercise. The runner's high. I run fast until I collapse, and then I feel good for a while. As the body falls apart, the mind gathers strength. Meditation tells me I should add this: As train of thought, personality, ego are dethroned (often the result of running or, uh, stretching) a deeper part of the mind is awakened, or at least, less drowned out. This silencing of mental chatter is our deepest and most unexplained craving. Meditation, yoga, fasting, severe intoxication, even orgasm could stem from our soul wanting our brain to just shut the fuck up for a while. While on my vacation, I compared the highs of alcohol, marijuana, fear, exhaustion, beauty, mushrooms, extacy, meditation, orgasm, and ideas. They all had something in common, beyond my enjoyment of them.
Thursday, April 26, 2007
Monday, April 16, 2007
YEAH!!!!
Thursday, April 12, 2007
Sad day in america
http://news.yahoo.com/s/ap/20070412/ap_on_re_us/obit_vonnegut
For those of you who have not read his work I highly recommend any or all of the following:
Slaughterhouse-Five
Welcome to the Monkey House
Breakfast of Champions(my favorite)
Cats Cradle
A Man Without a Country(my second favorite)
God Bless You, Doctor Kevorkian
Galapagos
Wednesday, April 11, 2007
that thing
I'm willing to (basically) admit this state of mind is chemical, so the question is this: These chemicals, do they run out? If one were to find away to experience this heightened consciousness constantly, would they eventually suffer a depression (like manic depressive people) or able to sustain it (like possibly buddhist monks). Is it a muscle that can be exercised and strengthened, or is it a well that gets tapped?
It's too bad there isnt an expert on pleasureful brain chemicals on this blog or this question could possibly be answered. oh wait...